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Ｔｉｍｉｎｇ ｃｈａｉｎｓ ａｒｅ ｉｎｔｅｒｅｓｔｉｎｇ. Ｅｓｐｅｃｉａｌｌｙ, ｗｈｅｎ ｙｏｕ ｆｉｎｄ ｙｏｕ ｓｕｄｄｅｎｌｙ ｎｅｅｄ ｔｏ ｒｅｐｌａｃｅ ｏｎｅ. Ｉ ｗａｓ ｊｕｓｔ ｄｒｉｖｉｎｇ ｍｙ ｗａｙ ｄｏｗｎ ｔｈｅ ｈｉｇｈｗａｙ ａｎｄ ｈａｄ ｒｅａｃｈｅｄ ｍｙ ｅｘｉｔ. Ｌｅｔｔｉｎｇ ｏｆｆ ｔｈｅ ｔｈｒｏｔｔｌｅ Ｉ ｌｅｔ ｍｙ ｏｌｄ ｔｒｕｃｋ ｄｒｉｆｔ ｔｏ ｂｌｅｅｄ ｏｆｆ ｍｙ ｓｐｅｅｄ ｓｏ Ｉ ｃｏｕｌｄ ｎｅｇｏｔｉａｔｅ ｔｈｅ ｏｆｆ ｒａｍｐ ｗｉｔｈ ａ ｇｏｏｄ ｄｅｇｒｅｅ ｏｆ ｓａｆｅｔｙ ｗｈｅｎ ｔｈｅ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ, ｗｉｔｈ ｎｏ ｗａｒｎｉｎｇ ｓｉｍｐｌｙ ｑｕｉｔ. Ｉ ｌｅｔ ｈｅｒ ｒｏｌｌ ｏｆｆ ｏｎｔｏ ｔｈｅ ｓｈｏｕｌｄｅｒ ｗｈｉｌｅ Ｉ ｓｔｉｌｌ ｈａｄ ｓｏｍｅ ｍｏｍｅｎｔｕｍ ａｎｄ ｇｏｔ ｏｕｔ ｏｆ ｔｒａｆｆｉｃ. Ｔｈｅ ｎｅｘｔ ｆｅｗ ｍｉｎｕｔｅｓ ｗｅｒｅ ｓｐｅｎｔ ｉｎ ａ ｇｒｅａｔ ｄｅａｌ ｏｆ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｃｒａｎｋｉｎｇ ａｎｄ ｓｎｏｏｐｉｎｇ ｕｎｄｅｒ ｔｈｅ ｈｏｏｄ ｔｒｙｉｎｇ ｔｏ ｄｅｔｅｒｍｉｎｅ ｊｕｓｔ ｗｈａｔ ｈａｄ ｈａｐｐｅｎｅｄ. Ｃｏｎｓｉｄｅｒｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ａｃｃｕｍｕｌａｔｅｄ ｍｉｌｅａｇｅ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ａｎｄ ｔｈｅ ｏｃｃａｓｉｏｎａｌ ｂａｃｋｆｉｒｅ Ｉ ｗａｓ ｇｅｔｔｉｎｇ ｗｈｉｌｅ ｃｒａｎｋｉｎｇ, ｔｈｅ ｌｉｋｅｌｙ ｐｒｏｂｌｅｍ ｓｅｅｍｅｄ ｔｏ ｂｅ ｔｈａｔ ｔｈｅ ｔｉｍｉｎｇ ｇｅａｒ ｈａｄ ｓｌｉｐｐｅｄ ａ ｔｏｏｔｈ ｏｒ ｔｗｏ..ａｎｄ ｔｈｅ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｗａｓ ｎｏｗ ｏｕｔ ｏｆ ｔｉｍｅ ｓｏ ｂａｄｌｙ ｏｎｌｙ ｒｅｐｌａｃｅｍｅｎｔ ｇｅａｒｓ ａｎｄ ｃｈａｉｎ ｗｏｕｌｄ ｂｒｉｎｇ ｉｔ ｂａｃｋ ｔｏ ｌｉｆｅ. Ｏｎｅ ｔｏｗ ｔｒｕｃｋ ｒｉｄｅ ａｎｄ ａｔ ｔｈｅ ｈｏｕｓｅ Ｉ ａｍ ｕｎｄｅｒ ｔｈｅ ｈｏｏｄ ｂｅｇｉｎｎｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ｐｒｏｃｅｓｓ ｏｆ ｒｅｐｌａｃｉｎｇ ｔｈｏｓｅ ｇｅａｒｓ ａｎｄ ｃｈａｉｎ ａｎｄ ｗｏｎｄｅｒｉｎｇ ｈｏｗ ｌｏｎｇ ａｌｌ ｔｈｉｓ ｍｉｇｈｔ ｔａｋｅ. Ｏｆｆ ｃｏｍｅｓ ｔｈｅ ｆａｎ ｓｈｒｏｕｄ. Ｔｈｅ ｓｅｒｐｅｎｔｉｎｅ ｂｅｌｔ ａｎｄ ｔｈｅ ｆａｎ ａｎｄ ｐｕｌｌｅｙ ａｓｓｅｍｂｌｙ. Ｔｈｅ ｗａｔｅｒ ｉｎ ｔｈｅ ｒａｄｉａｔｏｒ ｇｅｔｓ ｄｒａｉｎｅｄ ａｗａｙ ａｎｄ ｔｈｅｎ ｔｈｅ ｗａｔｅｒ ｐｕｍｐ ｉｓ ｒｅｍｏｖｅｄ. Ｎｅｘｔ ｉｔ ｗａｓ ｕｎｄｅｒ ｔｈｅ ｔｒｕｃｋ ｔｏ ｄｒａｉｎ ｔｈｅ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｏｉｌ ａｎｄ ｌｏｏｓｅｎ ａｌｌ ｔｗｅｎｔｙ ｔｗｏ ｂｏｌｔｓ ａｎｄ ｎｕｔｓ ｔｈａｔ ｈｏｌｄ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｏｉｌ ｐａｎ. Ｒｅｍｏｖｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ｐａｎ ａｃｔｕａｌｌｙ ｗａｓｎ'ｔ ｎｅｅｄｅｄ ｓｏ Ｉ ｊｕｓｔ ｔｏｏｋ ｏｆｆ ａｌｌ ｔｈｅ ｎｕｔｓ ｔｈａｔ ｈｏｌｄ ｉｔ ｏｎ ｅｘｃｅｐｔ ｔｈｅ ｏｎｅｓ ａｔ ｅａｃｈ ｃｏｒｎｅｒ. Ｉ ｊｕｓｔ ｎｅｅｄｅｄ ｉｔ ｔｏ ｃｏｍｅ ｄｏｗｎ ａ ｌｉｔｔｌｅ ｂｉｔ ｔｏ ｇａｉｎ ｃｌｅａｒａｎｃｅ ｆｏｒ ｔｈｅ ｔｉｍｉｎｇ ｃｈａｉｎ ｃｏｖｅｒ ｔｏ ｓｌｉｐ ｏｎ ａｎｄ ｏｆｆ. Ａｎｄ ａｓ ｌｏｎｇ ａｓ Ｉ ｗａｓ ｕｎｄｅｒ ｔｈｅｒｅ, Ｉ ａｌｓｏ ｐｏｐｐｅｄ ｏｆｆ ｔｈｅ ｈａｒｍｏｎｉｃ ｂａｌａｎｃｅｒ ａｓ ｉｔ ｎｅｅｄｅｄ ｔｏ ｃｏｍｅ ｏｆｆ ａｎｙｗａｙ. Ｔｈｉｓ ｒｅｑｕｉｒｅｄ ｔｈｅ ｕｓｅ ｏｆ ａ ｐｕｌｌｅｒ ｄｅｖｉｃｅ ｗｈｉｃｈ Ｉ ｒｅｎｔｅｄ ａｔ ｔｈｅ ｐａｒｔｓ ｓｔｏｒｅ. Ｏｋａｙ...ａｌｌ ｉｓ ｒｅａｄｙ ｎｏｗ ｔｏ ｐｏｐ ｏｆｆ ｔｈｅ ｃｈａｉｎ ｃｏｖｅｒ ａｎｄ ｇｅｔ ｉｎｔｏ ｔｈｅ ｒｅａｌ ｇｕｔｓ ｏｆ ｔｈｉｓ ｌａｔｅｓｔ ｂｒｅａｋｄｏｗｎ. Ｔｈｅ ｃｈａｉｎ ｃｏｖｅｒ ｉｓ ｏｎｌｙ ｈｅｌｄ ｏｎ ｂｙ ａｂｏｕｔ ｓｉｘ ｓｍａｌｌ ｂｏｌｔｓ. Ｉ ｒｅｍｏｖｅｄ ｔｈｅ ｂｏｌｔｓ ａｎｄ ｇｅｎｔｌｙ ｐｕｌｌｅｄ ｔｈｅ ｃｏｖｅｒ ａｗａｙ ｆｒｏｍ ｔｈｅ ｂｌｏｃｋ. Ｔｈｅ ｍａｎｎｅｒ ｉｎ ｗｈｉｃｈ ｔｈｉｓ ｃｏｖｅｒ ｉｓ ｍａｄｅ ｍａｋｅｓ ｉｔ ａｎ ｉｎｔｅｇｒａｌ ｐａｒｔ ｏｆ ｔｈｅ ｏｉｌ ｐａｎ ｓｅａｌ. Ｔｈｉｓ ｉｓ ｗｈｙ ｔｈｅ ｏｉｌ ｐａｎ ｈａｄ ｔｏ ｂｅ ｌｏｗｅｒｅｄ. Ｔｈａｔ ｃｏｖｅｒ ｈａｓ ａ ｓｅａｌ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｂｏｔｔｏｍ ｏｆ ｉｔ ｔｈａｔ ｍａｔｅｄ ｔｏ ｔｈｅ ｏｉｌ ｐａｎ ｉｔｓｅｌｆ. Ｔｏｇｅｔｈｅｒ, ｔｈｅｙ ｆｏｒｍｅｄ ａｎ ｏｉｌ ｔｉｇｈｔ ｓｅａｌ. Ｔｈｉｓ ｓａｍｅ ｃｏｖｅｒ ａｌｓｏ ｈａｓ ａ ｃｉｒｃｕｌａｒ ｓｅａｌ ｉｎ ｔｈｅ ｆｒｏｎｔ ｓｏ ｉｔ ｃａｎ ｓｌｉｐ ｏｖｅｒ ｔｈｅ ｅｘｐｏｓｅｄ ｅｎｄ ｏｆ ｔｈｅ ｃｒａｎｋ ｓｈａｆｔ. Ｔｈｅ ｃｈａｉｎ ｃｏｖｅｒ ｏｆｆ ｎｏｗ Ｉ ｃａｎ ｓｅｅ ｔｈｅ ｔｉｍｉｎｇ ｇｅａｒｓ ａｎｄ ｔｈｅ ｃｈａｉｎ. Ｓｕｒｅ ｅｎｏｕｇｈ, ｔｈｅｒｅ ｉｓ ａ ｔｏｏｔｈ ｍｉｓｓｉｎｇ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｌａｒｇｅ ｃａｍ ｇｅａｒ. Ｔｈｅ ｓｍａｌｌｅｒ ｃｒａｎｋｓｈａｆｔ ｇｅａｒ ｌｏｏｋｓ ｏｋａｙ ｂｕｔ ｔｈｅ ｔｅｅｔｈ ｈａｖｅ ｂｅｃｏｍｅ ｐｏｉｎｔｅｄ ｏｖｅｒ ｔｉｍｅ ａｎｄ ａｒｅ ｎｏ ｌｏｎｇｅｒ ｓｑｕａｒｅｄ ｏｆｆ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｅｎｄｓ. Ｔｈｅ ｃｈａｉｎ ｉｓ ｌｏｏｓｅ ａｓ ｗｅｌｌ ｉｎｓｔｅａｄ ｏｆ ｂｅｉｎｇ ｔａｕｔ ａｓ ａ ｂｏｗ ｓｔｒｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ｗａｙ ｉｔ ｓｈｏｕｌｄ. Ｈａｖｉｎｇ ｓｔｏｐｐｅｄ ｏｆｆ ａｔ ｔｈｅ ｐａｒｔｓ ｓｔｏｒｅ ｏｎ ｍｙ ｗａｙ ｂａｃｋ ｗｉｔｈ ｔｈｅ ｔｏｗ ｔｒｕｃｋ Ｉ ｈａｄ ｔｈｅ ｐａｒｔｓ Ｉ ｎｅｅｄｅｄ ｔｏ ｆｉｘ ａｌｌ ｔｈｉｓ ｒｉｇｈｔ ｕｐ. Ｆｉｒｓｔ ｗｅ ｇｅｔ ｔｈｅ ｃａｍ ｇｅａｒ ｏｆｆ. Ａ ｈａｌｆ ｉｎｃｈ ｄｒｉｖｅ ｓｏｃｋｅｔ ｗｒｅｎｃｈ ｒｅｍｏｖｅｓ ｔｈｅ ｓｉｎｇｌｅ ｌａｒｇｅ ｂｏｌｔ ｉｎ ａ ｊｉｆｆｙ. Ｐｕｌｌｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ｇｅａｒ ｓｔｒａｉｇｈｔ ｏｕｔ ｂｒｉｎｇｓ ｉｔ ａｎｄ ｔｈｅ ｃｈａｉｎ ｏｆｆ ａｔ ｔｈｅ ｓａｍｅ ｔｉｍｅ. Ｓｅｌｅｃｔｉｎｇ ａ ｓｔｕｒｄｙ ｆｌａｔ ｅｄｇｅ ｓｃｒｅｗ ｄｒｉｖｅｒ ａｌｌｏｗｓ ｍｅ ｔｏ ｗｅｄｇｅ ｔｈｅ ｃｒａｎｋ ｇｅａｒ ｏｆｆ ａｎｄ ｉｔ ｉｓ ｓｏｏｎ ｉｎ ｍｙ ｈａｎｄｓ ａｓ ｗｅｌｌ. Ｓｏ ｆａｒ, ｓｏ ｇｏｏｄ. Ｎｏｗ ｗｅ ｃｏｍｅ ｔｏ ｔｈｅ ｔｏｕｃｈｙ ｐａｒｔ ｏｆ ａｌｌ ｔｈｉｓ. Ｓｏ ｌｅｔ ｕｓ ｔａｌｋ ａｂｏｕｔ ｔｉｍｉｎｇ ｇｅａｒｓ ａｎｄ ｃｈａｉｎｓ ａｎｄ ｗｈａｔ ｔｈｅｙ ｄｏ, ｔｏ ｇａｉｎ ｓｏｍｅ ｕｎｄｅｒｓｔａｎｄｉｎｇ. Ｔｈｅ ｃｒａｎｋｓｈａｆｔ ａｎｄ ｙｏｕｒ ｃａｍ ｓｈａｆｔ ａｒｅ ｔｗｏ ｓｅｐａｒａｔｅ ｐａｒｔｓ ｏｆ ｙｏｕｒ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ. Ｔｈｅｙ ａｒｅ ｒｅｑｕｉｒｅｄ ｔｏ ｗｏｒｋ ｔｏｇｅｔｈｅｒ ｂｕｔ ａｃｃｏｍｐｌｉｓｈ ｓｅｐａｒａｔｅ ｔｈｉｎｇｓ ｉｎ ｏｒｄｅｒ ｆｏｒ ｙｏｕｒ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｔｏ ｒｕｎ. Ｔｈｅ ｃｒａｎｋｓｈａｆｔ ｈａｓ ｔｈｅ ｐｉｓｔｏｎｓ ａｔｔａｃｈｅｄ ｔｏ ｉｔ ａｎｄ ｗｈｅｎ ｔｈｅ ｐｉｓｔｏｎ ｉｓ ｆｏｒｃｅｄ ｄｏｗｎ ｂｙ ａｎ ｉｇｎｉｔｉｏｎ..ｙｏｕ ｇｅｔ ｐｏｗｅｒ ａｎｄ ｄｏｗｎ ｔｈｅ ｒｏａｄ ｙｏｕ ｇｏ. Ｂｕｔ ｔｈａｔ ｐｏｗｅｒ ｉｓ ｒｅａｌｌｙ ｔｈｅ ｒｅｓｕｌｔ ｏｆ ａｎ ｉｎｔａｋｅ ｏｆ ａｉｒ, ａ ｐｅｒｃｅｎｔａｇｅ ｏｆ ｇａｓｏｌｉｎｅ ｍｉｘｅｄ ｗｉｔｈ ｔｈａｔ ａｉｒ, ａｎｄ ａ ｓｐａｒｋ. Ｔｈｅ ａｉｒ ｗｅ ｎｅｅｄ ｃａｎｎｏｔ ｇｅｔ ｔｏ ｔｈｅ ｐｉｓｔｏｎ ｕｎｌｅｓｓ ｉｔ ｐａｓｓｅｓ ｔｈｒｏｕｇｈ ａ ｖａｌｖｅ ｆｉｒｓｔ. Ａｎｄ ｈｅｒｅ ｉｓ ｗｈｅｒｅ ｗｅ ｎｅｅｄ ｏｕｒ ｃａｍ. Ｉｔ ｈａｓ ｏｎｅ ｍａｉｎ ｊｏｂ ｅｓｓｅｎｔｉａｌｌｙ. Ｔｏ ｏｐｅｎ ａｎｄ ｃｌｏｓｅ ｔｈｅ ｉｎｔａｋｅ ａｎｄ ｅｘｈａｕｓｔ ｖａｌｖｅｓ ａｔ ｅｘａｃｔｌｙ ｔｈｅ ｒｉｇｈｔ ｔｉｍｅ, ｉｎ ｔｈｅ ｅｘａｃｔ ｒｉｇｈｔ ｓｅｑｕｅｎｃｅ ｔｏ ａｌｌｏｗ ａ ｃｏｎｔｉｎｕｏｕｓ ｉｎｔａｋｅ ｏｆ ａｉｒ ａｎｄ ｅｘｐｕｌｓｉｏｎ ｏｆ ｅｘｈａｕｓｔ ｇａｓｅｓ. Ｇｅｔｔｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ｃｒａｎｋｓｈａｆｔ ａｎｄ ｃａｍ ｓｈａｆｔ ｔｏ ｗｏｒｋ ｔｏｇｅｔｈｅｒ ａｎｄ ｉｎ ｈａｒｍｏｎｙ ｉｓ ｗｈａｔ ｓｈａｄｅ ｔｒｅｅ ｍｅｃｈａｎｉｃｓ ｃａｌｌ ｔｉｍｉｎｇ. Ｉ ｂｒｉｎｇ ｏｕｔ ｔｈｅ ｓｏｃｋｅｔ ｗｒｅｎｃｈ ａｇａｉｎ ｂｅｃａｕｓｅ Ｉ ａｍ ｇｏｉｎｇ ｔｏ ｎｅｅｄ ｉｔ ｓｈｏｒｔｌｙ ｔｏ ｂｅｇｉｎ ｔｈｉｓ ｐｒｏｃｅｓｓ ｏｆ ｔｉｍｉｎｇ. Ｉ ｎｅｅｄ ｔｏ ｄｏ ｔｗｏ ｔｈｉｎｇｓ. Ｆｉｒｓｔ, Ｉ ｎｅｅｄ ｔｏ ｂｒｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ｃｒａｎｋｓｈａｆｔ ｕｐ ｔｏ ｗｈａｔ ｉｓ ｋｎｏｗｎ ａｓ Ｔｏｐ Ｄｅａｄ Ｃｅｎｔｅｒ...ｏｒ ＴＤＣ. Ｔｈｉｓ ｍｅａｎｓ ｔｈａｔ ｔｈｅ ｐｉｓｔｏｎ ｉｎ ｎｕｍｂｅｒ ｏｎｅ ｃｙｌｉｎｄｅｒ ｎｅｅｄｓ ｔｏ ｂｅ ａｔ ｔｈｅ ｖｅｒｙ ｔｏｐ ｍｏｓｔ ｐｏｉｎｔ ｉｎ ｉｔ'ｓ ｍｏｖｅｍｅｎｔ. Ｔｏｐ ｄｅａｄ ｃｅｎｔｅｒ ! Ｄｅｔｅｒｍｉｎｉｎｇ ｗｈｅｒｅ ｔｈｅ ｐｉｓｔｏｎ ｉｓ ａｔ ａｎｙ ｇｉｖｅｎ ｔｉｍｅ ｉｓ ｑｕｉｔｅ ｅａｓｙ ｈｏｗｅｖｅｒ. Ｔｈａｔ ｃｒａｎｋ ｇｅａｒ ｈａｓ ａ ｓｌｏｔ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｉｎｓｉｄｅ ｓｕｒｆａｃｅ ｏｆ ｔｈｅ ｈｏｌｅ ｔｈａｔ ｈａｓ ｂｅｅｎ ｂｏｒｅｄ ｉｎｔｏ ｔｈｅ ｃｅｎｔｅｒ ｏｆ ｉｔ ａｔ ｔｈｅ ｆａｃｔｏｒｙ. Ｔｈｉｓ ｈｏｌｅ ｉｓ ｔｈｅｒｅ ｓｏ ｔｈｅ ｇｅａｒ ｃａｎ ｓｌｉｐ ｏｖｅｒ ｔｈｅ ｅｎｄ ｏｆ ｔｈｅ ｃｒａｎｋｓｈａｆｔ ａｎｄ ｔｈｉｓ ｓｌｏｔ ｉｓ ｃａｌｌｅｄ ａ ｋｅｙ ｗａｙ. Ａｎｄ ｔｈｅ ｓｈａｆｔ ｈａｓ ａ ｒａｉｓｅｄ ｒｉｄｇｅ ｔｈａｔ ｗｉｌｌ ｆｉｔ ｐｅｒｆｅｃｔｌｙ ｉｎ ｔｈａｔ ｓｌｏｔ. Ｔｈｉｓ ｒｉｄｇｅ ｉｓ ｃａｌｌｅｄ ｔｈｅ ｋｅｙ. Ｓｏ ｔｈｅ ｇｅａｒ ｗｉｌｌ ｏｎｌｙ ｆｉｔ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｓｈａｆｔ ｏｎｅ ｗａｙ, ａｎｄ ｏｎｅ ｗａｙ ｏｎｌｙ. Ａｌｓｏ, ｅｔｃｈｅｄ ｉｎｔｏ ｔｈｅ ｍｅｔａｌ ｏｆ ｔｈｅ ｇｅａｒ ｉｓ ａｎ ａｌｉｇｎｍｅｎｔ ｄｉｍｐｌｅ. Ｙｏｕ ｊｕｓｔ ａｔｔａｃｈ ｔｈｅ ｎｅｗ ｇｅａｒ ｔｏ ｔｈｅ ｃｒａｎｋ ｗｉｔｈ ｔｈｅ ｂｏｌｔ ａｎｄ ｔｉｇｈｔｅｎ ｉｔ ｔｏ ｓｐｅｃｉｆｉｃａｔｉｏｎｓ. Ｔｈｅｎ ｙｏｕ ｃａｎ ｒｏｔａｔｅ ｔｈｅ ｃｒａｎｋ ｕｎｔｉｌ ｔｈａｔ ｄｉｍｐｌｅ ｗｈｉｃｈ ｙｏｕ ｈａｖｅ ｎｏｔ ｔａｋｅｎ ｙｏｕｒ ｂｅａｄｙ ｌｉｔｔｌｅ ｅｙｅｓ ｆｒｏｍ..ｉｓ ａｔ ｔｈｅ ｔｗｅｌｖｅ ｏ'ｃｌｏｃｋ ｐｏｓｉｔｉｏｎ. Ｙｏｕｒ ｃｒａｎｋｓｈａｆｔ..ａｎｄ ｔｈｅ ｎｕｍｂｅｒ ｏｎｅ ｐｉｓｔｏｎ, ａｒｅ ｎｏｗ ａｔ Ｔｏｐ Ｄｅａｄ Ｃｅｎｔｅｒ. Ｎｏｗ Ｉ ｎｅｅｄ ｔｏ ｒｅｍｏｖｅ ｔｈａｔ ｂｏｌｔ ａｓ Ｉ ｗｉｌｌ ｎｅｅｄ ｉｔ ｌａｔｅｒ ｆｏｒ ｔｈｅ ｈａｒｍｏｎｉｃ ｂａｌａｎｃｅｒ. Ｏｕｒ ｎｅｘｔ ｍｏｖｅ ｉｓ ｔｏ ｇｅｔ ｔｈｅ ｎｅｗ ｃａｍ ｇｅａｒ ｏｎ. Ｉｔ ａｌｓｏ ｈａｓ ａｎ ａｌｉｇｎｍｅｎｔ ｄｉｍｐｌｅ. Ｏｎ ｍｙ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｉｔ ｉｓ ｒｅｑｕｉｒｅｄ ｔｈａｔ ｔｈｅ ｄｉｍｐｌｅ ｂｅ ａｔ ｔｈｅ ｓｉｘ ｏ'ｃｌｏｃｋ ｐｏｓｉｔｉｏｎ. Ｉ ｐｏｐ ｔｈｅ ｇｅａｒ ｏｎ ａｎｄ ｔｉｇｈｔｅｎ ｄｏｗｎ ｔｈｅ ｂｏｌｔ ａｎｄ ｏｎｃｅ ｉｔ ｇｅｔｓ ｔｉｇｈｔ ｅｎｏｕｇｈ ｔｈｅ ｅｎｔｉｒｅ ｃａｍ ｗｉｌｌ ｍｏｖｅ ａｓ Ｉ ｃｏｎｔｉｎｕｅ ｔｏ ｐｕｌｌ ｏｎ ｍｙ ｗｒｅｎｃｈ. Ｏｎｃｅ ｔｈｅ ｃａｍ ｇｅａｒ ａｌｉｇｎｍｅｎｔ ｄｉｍｐｌｅ ｈａｓ ｒｅａｃｈｅｄ ｔｈｅ ｓｉｘ ｏ'ｃｌｏｃｋ ｐｏｓｉｔｉｏｎ, Ｉ ｕｓｅ ａ ｂｒｏａｄ ｂｌａｄｅ ｓｃｒｅｗ ｄｒｉｖｅｒ ｗｅｄｇｅｄ ｉｎｔｏ ｔｈｅ ｔｅｅｔｈ ｏｆ ｔｈｅ ｇｅａｒ ｔｏ ｐｒｅｖｅｎｔ ｉｔ ｍｏｖｉｎｇ ａｎｄ ｔａｋｅ ｔｈｅ ｃａｍ ｇｅａｒ ｂｏｌｔ ｂａｃｋ ｏｕｔ. Ｎｏｗ Ｉ ｃａｎ ｐｏｐ ｔｈｅ ｇｅａｒ ｏｆｆ ａｇａｉｎ ａｎｄ ｍｙ ｃａｍ ｈａｓｎ'ｔ ｍｏｖｅｄ ａｔ ａｌｌ. Ｐｉｃｋｉｎｇ ｕｐ ｔｈｅ ｔｉｍｉｎｇ ｃｈａｉｎ Ｉ ｄｒａｐｅ ｉｔ ｏｖｅｒ ｔｈｅ ｃａｍ ｇｅａｒ ａｎｄ ｓｌｏｗｌｙ,ｃａｒｅｆｕｌｌｙ ｌｏｏｐ ｔｈｅ ｂｏｔｔｏｍ ｈａｌｆ ｏｆ ｔｈｅ ｄａｎｇｌｉｎｇ ｃｈａｉｎ ａｒｏｕｎｄ ｔｈｅ ｃｒａｎｋｓｈａｆｔ ｇｅａｒ. Ｉｆ ｙｏｕ ｄｏ ｔｈｉｓ ｒｉｇｈｔ, ｙｏｕ ｃａｎ ｍｏｖｅ ｂｏｔｈ ｃｈａｉｎ ａｎｄ ｃａｍ ｇｅａｒ ｕｐ ａｎｄ ｏｎｔｏ ｔｈｅ ｃｒａｎｋ ｇｅａｒ, ｇｅｔ ｔｈｅ ｃａｍ ｇｅａｒ ｐｌａｃｅｄ , ｓｔｉｌｌ ｗｉｔｈ ｔｈａｔ ｄｉｍｐｌｅ ａｔ ｓｉｘ ｏ'ｃｌｏｃｋ, ａｎｄ ａ ｂｏｌｔ ｔｈｒｏｕｇｈ ｉｔ'ｓ ｃｅｎｔｅｒ ｗｉｔｈ ｍｉｎｉｍａｌ ｔｒｏｕｂｌｅ. Ｗｉｔｈ ｔｈｅ ｂｏｌｔ ｎｏｗ ｔｈｒｏｕｇｈ ｔｈｅ ｇｅａｒ ａｎｄ ｉｎｔｏ ｔｈｅ ｃａｍｓｈａｆｔ..ｔｈｅ ｗｈｏｌｅ ａｓｓｅｍｂｌｙ ｉｓ ｂｅｇｉｎｎｉｎｇ ｔｏ ｃｏｍｅ ｔｏｇｅｔｈｅｒ. Ｔｉｇｈｔｅｎ ｔｈｅ ｃａｍ ｇｅａｒ ｔｏ ｓｐｅｃｉｆｉｃａｔｉｏｎｓ. Ｎｏｗ Ｉ ｔａｋｅ ａ ｌｏｏｋ ａｔ ｔｈｅ ｃｈａｉｎ ｃｏｖｅｒ. Ｔｈｅｒｅ ａｒｅ ｓｏｍｅ ｃｏｎｃｅｒｎｓ ｈｅｒｅ. Ｆｉｒｓｔ, ｉｔ ｈａｓ ａ ｇａｓｋｅｔ ｏｒ ｒｅｍａｉｎｓ ｏｆ ａ ｇａｓｋｅｔ, ｔｈａｔ ｈａｖｅ ｔｏ ｂｅ ｒｅｍｏｖｅｄ ａｎｄ ａ ｐｕｔｔｙ ｋｎｉｆｅ ｗｉｌｌ ｄｏ ｔｈｉｓ ｉｎ ｑｕｉｃｋ ｔｉｍｅ ｆｏｒ ｍｅ. Ｉ ａｌｓｏ ｌｏｏｋ ａ ｔｈｅ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｂｌｏｃｋ ｗｈｅｒｅ ｔｈｉｓ ｃｏｖｅｒ ｒｅｓｉｄｅｓ, Ｉｆ ｔｈｅｒｅ ａｒｅ ａｎｙ ｇａｓｋｅｔ ｒｅｍａｉｎｓ ｏｎ ｔｈｅｒｅ ｔｈｅ ｐｕｔｔｙ ｋｎｉｆｅ ｗｉｌｌ ｒｅｍｏｖｅ ｔｈｅｍ ｅａｓｉｌｙ. Ｔｈｅ ｃｈａｉｎ ｃｏｖｅｒ ａｌｓｏ ｈａｓ ａ ｓｅａｌ ｉｎ ｔｈｅ ｌｏｗｅｒ ｆｒｏｎｔ ｏｆ ｉｔ. Ｉｔ ｉｓ ｗｉｓｅｓｔ ｔｏ ｒｅｐｌａｃｅ ｔｈｉｓ ｓｅａｌ ａｓ ｉｔ ｃａｎ ｂｅ ｄａｍａｇｅｄ ｉｎ ｒｅｍｏｖｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ｃｏｖｅｒ. Ａｎｄ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｂｏｔｔｏｍ ｏｆ ｔｈｅ ｃｏｖｅｒ ｉｓ ａｎｏｔｈｅｒ ｓｅａｌ. Ｔｈｉｓ ｉｓ ｔｈｅ ｐａｒｔ ｔｈａｔ ｍａｔｅｓ ｕｐ ｔｏ ｔｈｅ ｏｉｌ ｐａｎ ａｎｄ Ｉ ｗａｎｔｅｄ ｔｏ ｍａｋｅ ｄｅａｄ ｃｅｒｔａｉｎ ｔｈｅｓｅ ｇａｓｋｅｔｓ ａｎｄ ｓｅａｌｓ ｗｅｒｅ ｐｅｒｆｅｃｔ ｔｏ ｐｒｅｖｅｎｔ ｏｉｌ ｌｅａｋｓ. Ｓｉｘ ｂｏｌｔｓ ｌａｔｅｒ Ｉ ｈａｖｅ ｔｈｅ ｃｈａｉｎ ｃｏｖｅｒ ｉｎ ｐｌａｃｅ ａｎｄ Ｉ ｃａｎ ｇｏ ｕｎｄｅｒ ｔｈｅ ｔｒｕｃｋ ａｎｄ ｒｅｐｌａｃｅ ａｌｌ ｔｈｏｓｅ ｔｗｅｎｔｙ ｔｗｏ ｂｏｌｔｓ ａｎｄ ｎｕｔｓ ａｎｄ ｓｎｕｇ ｔｈｅ ｏｉｌ ｐａｎ ｂａｃｋ ｕｐ ａｎｄ ａｇａｉｎｓｔ ｔｈｅ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｂｌｏｃｋ ｗｈｅｒｅ ｉｔ ｂｅｌｏｎｇｓ. Ａｎｄ ａｇａｉｎ, ａｓ ｌｏｎｇ ａｓ Ｉ ａｍ ｕｎｄｅｒ ｔｈｅｒｅ, Ｉ ｐｕｔ ｔｈｅ ｈａｒｍｏｎｉｃ ｂａｌａｎｃｅｒ ｂａｃｋ ｉｎ ｐｌａｃｅ ａｎｄ ｔｏｒｑｕｅ ｉｔ ｕｐ ｔｏ ｓｐｅｃｉｆｉｃａｔｉｏｎｓ. Ｔｈａｔ ｄｏｎｅ Ｉ ｃａｎ ｃｏｎｃｅｎｔｒａｔｅ ｏｎ ｐｕｔｔｉｎｇ ｅｖｅｒｙｔｈｉｎｇ ｅｌｓｅ ｂａｃｋ ｗｈｅｒｅ ｉｔ ｂｅｌｏｎｇｓ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｆｒｏｎｔ ｏｆ ｔｈｅ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｎｏｗ. Ｉ ｒｅｐｌａｃｅ ｔｈｅ ｗａｔｅｒ ｐｕｍｐ ｇａｓｋｅｔｓ ａｎｄ ｃｏｎｓｉｄｅｒｉｎｇ ｔｈｉｓ ｉｓ ｔｈｅ ｏｒｉｇｉｎａｌ ｐｕｍｐ, Ｉ ｈａｖｅ ａ ｎｅｗ ｒｅｐｌａｃｅｍｅｎｔ ｆｏｒ ｉｔ ａｓ ｗｅｌｌ. Ｔｈｅ ｆａｎ ｐｕｌｌｅｙ ａｓｓｅｍｂｌｙ ｇｏｅｓ ｏｎ ｎｅｘｔ ａｎｄ ｔｈｅｎ ｔｈｅ ｓｅｒｐｅｎｔｉｎｅ ｂｅｌｔ. Ａｌｌ ｔｈａｔ ｉｓ ｌｅｆｔ ｉｓ ｔｈｅ ｆａｎ ｓｈｒｏｕｄ, ｒｅｆｉｌｌ ｔｈｅ ｒａｄｉａｔｏｒ ｗｉｔｈ ｃｏｏｌａｎｔ ａｎｄ ｒｅｐｌａｃｅ ｔｈｅ ｏｉｌ ｆｉｌｔｅｒ ａｎｄ ｒｅｆｉｌｌ ｗｉｔｈ ｏｉｌ..ａｎｄ ｔｈｅ ｔｈｉｎｇ ｓｈｏｕｌｄ ｓｔａｒｔ ｒｉｇｈｔ ｕｐ. Ｂｅｆｏｒｅ ｓｔａｒｔｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｈｏｗｅｖｅｒ, ｔｈｅｒｅ ｉｓ ｏｎｅ ｍｏｒｅ ｔｈｉｎｇ Ｉ ｆｅｅｌ Ｉ ｓｈｏｕｌｄ ｃｈｅｃｋ. Ｉ ｂｒｉｎｇ ｏｕｔ ｍｙ ｉｎｄｕｃｔｉｖｅ ｔｉｍｉｎｇ ｌｉｇｈｔ. Ｔｈｉｓ ｉｓ ａ ｓｔｒｏｂｏｓｃｏｐｉｃ ｆｌａｓｈ ｕｎｉｔ ｒｅａｌｌｙ, ｔｈａｔ ｈａｓ ｔｈｅ ｓｈａｐｅ ｏｆ ａ ｆｕｔｕｒｉｓｔｉｃ ｒａｙ ｇｕｎ. Ｉｔ'ｓ ｊｏｂ ｉｓ ｔｏ ｆｌａｓｈ ａｔ ｔｈｅ ｅｘａｃｔ ｍｏｍｅｎｔ ｔｈａｔ ｎｕｍｂｅｒ ｏｎｅ ｐｉｓｔｏｎ ｆｉｒｅｓ. Ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｈａｒｍｏｎｉｃ ｂａｌａｎｃｅｒ ｉｓ ａ ｓｈａｌｌｏｗ ｇｒｏｏｖｅ ｃｕｔ ｉｎｔｏ ｔｈｅ ｍｅｔａｌ. Ａｎｄ ｎｅａｒｂｙ, ｉｓ ａ ｍａｒｋｅｄ ｇａｕｇｅ ｓｈｏｗｉｎｇ ａ ｐｏｒｔｉｏｎ ｏｆ ｔｈｅ ｄｅｇｒｅｅｓ ｏｆ ａ ｃｉｒｃｌｅ. Ｍｉｎｅ ｉｓ ｍａｒｋｅｄ ｌｉｋｅ ＢＴＣ -4 -2 0 +2 +3 +4 ＡＴＣ. Ｔｈａｔ ｌｉｔｔｌｅ ｃｏｄｅ ｄｅｃｉｐｈｅｒｅｄ ｍｅａｎｔ ｔｈａｔ -4 ｗａｓ 4 ｄｅｇｒｅｅｓ ｂｅｆｏｒｅ ｔｏｐ ｄｅａｄ ｃｅｎｔｅｒ ｏｒ ＢＴＤＣ. Ｔｈｅ ｚｅｒｏ ｍｅａｎｔ Ｔｏｐ ｄｅａｄ Ｃｅｎｔｅｒ. Ａｎｄ ｔｈｅ ｎｕｍｂｅｒｓ ｗｉｔｈ ａ ｐｌｕｓ ｓｉｇｎ ａｒｅ ｄｅｇｒｅｅｓ ｏｆ ｔｉｍｉｎｇ Ａｆｔｅｒ Ｔｏｐ Ｄｅａｄ Ｃｅｎｔｅｒ..ｏｒ ＡＴＤＣ. Ｍｙ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｎｅｅｄｓ ｔｏ ｂｅ ａｔ ＴＤＣ. Ａｌｌ ｙｏｕ ｈａｖｅ ｔｏ ｄｏ ｉｓ ｕｓｅ ｃｈａｌｋ ｏｒ ｗｈｉｔｅｏｕｔ ｔｏ ｍａｒｋ ｔｈａｔ ｇｒｏｏｖｅ ｉｎ ｔｈｅ ｈａｒｍｏｎｉｃ ｂａｌａｎｃｅｒ ｓｏ ｙｏｕ ｃａｎ ｓｅｅ ｉｔ ｉｎ ｔｈｅ ｔｉｍｉｎｇ ｌｉｇｈｔｓ ｆｌａｓｈ ａｎｄ ａｎｏｔｈｅｒ ｍａｒｋ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｚｅｒｏ ｏｆ ｔｈｅ ｇａｕｇｅ ｔｈａｔ ｉｓ ｍｏｕｎｔｅｄ ｎｅａｒ ｅｎｏｕｇｈ ｔｏ ｔｈｅ ｂａｌａｎｃｅｒ ｓｏ ｙｏｕ ｃａｎ ｓｅｅ ｔｈｅｍ ａｔ ｔｈｅ ｓａｍｅ ｔｉｍｅ. Ａｆｔｅｒ ａｔｔａｃｈｉｎｇ ｍｙ ｌｉｇｈｔ Ｉ ｇｉｖｅ ｔｈｅ ｉｇｎｉｔｉｏｎ ｋｅｙ ａ ｔｗｉｓｔ ａｎｄ ｔｈｅ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｓｐｒｉｎｇｓ ｔｏ ｌｉｆｅ. Ｉ ｌｅｔ ｉｔ ｓｅｔｔｌｅ ｄｏｗｎ ｗｈｉｌｅ ｏｂｓｅｒｖｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ｇａｕｇｅｓ ｌｏｏｋｉｎｇ ｆｏｒ ｏｉｌ ｐｒｅｓｓｕｒｅ ｔｏ ｃｏｍｅ ｕｐ ａｎｄ ｆｉｎｄ ａｌｌ ｉｓ ｗｅｌｌ. Ｏｕｔｓｉｄｅ ａｇａｉｎ Ｉ ｐｉｃｋ ｕｐ ｔｈｅ ｌｉｇｈｔ ａｎｄ ａｉｍ ｉｔ'ｓ ｂａｒｒｅｌ ｄｏｗｎ ｉｎｔｏ ｔｈｅ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｃｏｍｐａｒｔｍｅｎｔ ｓｏ ｉｔ ｃａｎ ｉｌｌｕｍｉｎａｔｅ ｔｈｅ ｍａｒｋｓ Ｉ ｈａｖｅ ｍａｄｅ. Ｅａｃｈ ｔｉｍｅ ｔｈｅ ｎｕｍｂｅｒ ｏｎｅ ｐｉｓｔｏｎ ｉｓ ｆｉｒｅｄ Ｉ ｇｅｔ ａ ｂｒｉｇｈｔ ｆｌａｓｈ ｏｆ ｌｉｇｈｔ. Ｂｅｉｎｇ ａ ｓｔｒｏｂｅ, ｔｈｉｓ ｌｉｇｈｔ ｈａｓ ｔｈｅ ｅｆｆｅｃｔ ｏｆ ｆｒｅｅｚｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ｍｏｔｉｏｎ ｏｆ ｔｈｅ ｒｏｔａｔｉｎｇ ｃｒａｎｋｓｈａｆｔ ａｎｄ Ｉ ｃａｎ ｃｌｅａｒｌｙ ｓｅｅ ｔｈｅ ｍａｒｋ Ｉ ｈａｖｅ ｍａｄｅ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｂａｌａｎｃｅｒ ａｎｄ ｔｈｅ ｓｔａｔｉｏｎａｒｙ ｇａｕｇｅ. Ｔｈｅｙ ａｒｅ ｐｅｒｆｅｃｔｌｙ ａｌｉｇｎｅｄ ａｎｄ ｕｎｍｏｖｉｎｇ. Ｍｙ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｉｓ ｎｏｗ ｓａｉｄ ｔｏ ｂｅ ｉｎ ｔｉｍｅ. Ｉ ｈａｄ ｌｉｔｔｌｅ ｄｏｕｂｔ ｔｈｉｓ ｗｏｕｌｄ ｂｅ ｔｈｅ ｃａｓｅ, ｂｕｔ ｉｔ ｉｓ ａｌｗａｙｓ ｇｏｏｄ ｔｏ ｃｏｎｆｉｒｍ ｔｈｉｎｇｓ. Ｓｉｎｃｅ ｔｈｅ ｄｉｓｔｒｉｂｕｔｏｒ ｈａｄ ｒｅｍａｉｎｅｄ ｕｎｄｉｓｔｕｒｂｅｄ, ｔｈｅｒｅ ｗａｓ ｎｏ ｒｅａｓｏｎ ｆｏｒ ｉｔ ｂｅ ｏｕｔ ｏｆ ｔｉｍｅ ａｎｙｗａｙ. Ｔｈｅ ｔｉｍｉｎｇ ｗａｓ ｐｒｅｃｉｓｅｌｙ ｗｈｅｒｅ ｉｔ ｈａｄ ｂｅｅｎ ｂｅｆｏｒｅ ｔｈａｔ ｇｅａｒ ｔｏｏｔｈ ｈａｄ ｂｒｏｋｅｎ ｏｆｆ. Ｔｈｅ ｅｎｔｉｒｅ ｊｏｂ ｔｏｏｋ ｓｅｖｅｒａｌ ｈｏｕｒｓ ａｎｄ Ｉ ｃａｎ ｒｅｌｙ ｏｎ ｔｈｉｓ ｆｉｘ ｔｏ ｌａｓｔ ａｎｏｔｈｅｒ ｈｕｎｄｒｅｄ ｔｈｏｕｓａｎｄ ｍｉｌｅｓ. Ｏｎ ａｖｅｒａｇｅ, Ｔｉｍｉｎｇ ｇｅａｒｓ ａｎｄ ｃｈａｉｎｓ ｓｈｏｕｌｄ ｂｅ ｒｅｐｌａｃｅｄ ａｔ ｔｈｅ ｈｕｎｄｒｅｄ ｔｈｏｕｓａｎｄ ｍｉｌｅ ｍａｒｋ. ｉｆ ｙｏｕｒ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｕｓｅｓ ａ Ｔｉｍｉｎｇ Ｂｅｌｔ ｈｏｗｅｖｅｒ, Ｙｏｕ ｓｈｏｕｌｄ ｒｅｐｌａｃｅ ｔｈｅ ｂｅｌｔ ａｔ ａｂｏｕｔ ｓｉｘｔｙ ｔｈｏｕｓａｎｄ ｍｉｌｅｓ. Ｏｎｅ ｔｈｉｎｇ ｔｏ ｎｏｔｅ ｈｅｒｅ ａｂｏｕｔ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ'ｓ ｔｈａｔ ｕｓｅ ａ ｂｅｌｔ. Ｔｈｅｒｅ ａｒｅ ｔｗｏ ｋｉｎｄｓ ｏｆ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ'ｓ ｉｎ ｔｈｅ ｔｉｍｉｎｇ ｂｅｌｔ ｗｏｒｌｄ. Ｉｎｔｅｒｆｅｒｅｎｃｅ ａｎｄ ｎｏｎ ｉｎｔｅｒｆｅｒｅｎｃｅ ｅｎｇｉｎｅｓ. Ｔｈｅ ｉｎｔｅｒｆｅｒｅｎｃｅ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｉｓ ｏｎｅ ｔｈａｔ ｃａｎ ｃｏｓｔ ｙｏｕ ａ ｓｍａｌｌ ｆｏｒｔｕｎｅ ｉｆ ｔｈｅ ｔｉｍｉｎｇ ｂｅｌｔ ｓｈｏｕｌｄ ｂｒｅａｋ..ｏｒ ｅｖｅｎ ｓｌｉｐ ａ ｔｏｏｔｈ. Ａｎｄ ｔｈｅ ｒｅａｓｏｎ ｉｓ ｔｈａｔ ｔｈｅ ｔｏｌｅｒａｎｃｅｓ ａｒｅ ｓｏ ｃｌｏｓｅ ｉｎ ｔｈｉｓ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ..ｔｈａｔ ｉｆ ｉｔ ｅｖｅｒ ｃｏｍｅｓ ｏｕｔ ｏｆ ｔｉｍｅ ｄｕｅ ｔｏ ａ ｆａｕｌｔ ｗｉｔｈ ｔｈｅ ｔｉｍｉｎｇ ｂｅｌｔ, ｔｈｅ ｒｉｓｉｎｇ ｐｉｓｔｏｎｓ ｗｉｌｌ ｉｍｐａｃｔ ｄｉｒｅｃｔｌｙ ｏｎｔｏ ａｎｙ ｖａｌｖｅｓ ｔｈａｔ ｈａｐｐｅｎ ｔｏ ｂｅ ｄｏｗｎ ａｔ ｔｈａｔ ｍｏｍｅｎｔ. Ｔｈｅ ｖａｌｖｅｓ ｈａｖｅ " ｉｎｔｅｒｆｅｒｅｄ" .Ｔｈｉｓ ｌｅａｄｓ ｔｏ ｂｒｏｋｅｎ ｖａｌｖｅｓ, ｄａｍａｇｅｄ ｐｉｓｔｏｎｓ, ｂｒｏｋｅｎ ｈｅａｄｓ ａｎｄ ｍｕｌｔｉ-ｈｕｎｄｒｅｄ ｄｏｌｌａｒ ｒｅｐａｉｒ ｂｉｌｌｓ. Ｐｏｓｓｉｂｌｙ ｌｅａｄｉｎｇ ｕｐ ｔｏ ａ ｒｅｐｌａｃｅｍｅｎｔ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ. Ａｔ ｔｈａｔ, ｗｉｌｌ ｓｅｔ ｙｏｕ ｂａｃｋ ａ ｌｏｔ ｆｉｎａｎｃｉａｌｌｙ. Ａ ｎｏｎ ｉｎｔｅｒｆｅｒｅｎｃｅ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ ｄｏｅｓ ｎｏｔ ｈａｖｅ ｔｈｉｓ ｄａｍａｇｅ ｐｏｔｅｎｔｉａｌ ｉｆ ｔｈｅ ｂｅｌｔ ｓｈｏｕｌｄ ｓｌｉｐ ｏｒ ｂｒｅａｋ. Ｓｏ ｂｅ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｓａｆｅ ａｎｄ ｗｉｓｅ ｓｉｄｅ ｏｆ ｔｉｍｉｎｇ ｂｅｌｔｓ. Ｉｆ ｙｏｕｒ ｃｌｏｃｋ ｈａｓ ｏｖｅｒ ｓｉｘｔｙ ｔｈｏｕｓａｎｄ ｏｎ ｉｔ, ａｎｄ ｙｏｕ ｈａｖｅ ｎｅｖｅｒ ｒｅｐｌａｃｅｄ ｔｈｅ ｂｅｌｔ...ｙｏｕ ｍａｙ ｗａｎｔ ｔｏ ｇｅｔ ｔｈｉｓ ｄｏｎｅ. Ａｎｄ ａｌｓｏ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｐｌｕｓ ｓｉｄｅ ｆｏｒ ｔｉｍｅｌｙ ｂｅｌｔ ｒｅｐｌａｃｅｍｅｎｔ..ｉｔ ｉｓｎ'ｔ ａｌｌ ｔｈａｔ ｅｘｐｅｎｓｉｖｅ. Ｔｈｅ ｂｅｌｔ ｍｉｇｈｔ ｇｏ 30 ｄｏｌｌａｒｓ ｏｒ ｓｏ, ａｎｄ ａ ｇｏｏｄ ｇａｒａｇｅ ｃａｎ ｈａｖｅ ｔｈｅ ｎｅｗ ｂｅｌｔ ｉｎｓｔａｌｌｅｄ ｉｎ ｕｎｄｅｒ 2 ｈｏｕｒｓ. Ｏｒ ｙｏｕ ｃａｎ ｄｏ ｉｔ ｙｏｕｒｓｅｌｆ ｉｆ ｙｏｕ ｈａｖｅ ｔｈｅ ｐｒｏｐｅｒ ｔｏｏｌｓ ａｎｄ ａ ｆｒｅｅ ａｆｔｅｒｎｏｏｎ. Ｂｕｔ ｂｅ ｓｕｒｅ ａｎｄ ｇｅｔ ａ ｒｅｐａｉｒ ｍａｎｕａｌ ｆｏｒ ｙｏｕｒ ｅｘａｃｔ ｅｎｇｉｎｅ. Ｉｔ ｗｉｌｌ ｔｅｌｌ ｙｏｕ ａｂｏｕｔ ｐｒｏｐｅｒ ｇｅａｒ ｐｏｓｉｔｉｏｎ, ｔｏｒｑｕｅ ｉｎｆｏｒｍａｔｉｏｎ ａｎｄ ｔｈｅｙ ｏｆｔｅｎ ｉｎｃｌｕｄｅ ｈａｎｄｙ ｓｈｏｒｔｃｕｔｓ ｙｏｕ ｃａｎ ｕｓｅ. |
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